Komodo and Rinca

A large Komodo Dragon waits for tourists to get a little too close.

One of the things that makes Surabaya nice is that it’s a much closer entry point than Jakarta for some of Indonesia’s top sites and attractions. The flight to Flores island was two quick hops with a brief layover in Bali…then it was onward to Komodo Island, one of the world’s natural wonders.

Reached only by boat, Komodo Island and its nearby sister Rinca are two of only four islands in the world that are home to the Komodo dragon…the largest lizard on the planet.

These giant reptiles are not quite as large as crocodiles, but they are impressive — as is the fetid saliva that drips from their jaws. Known for lying in wait and surprising prey with a quick attack and then waiting for it to die, the dragons often seem lethargic and even sluggish. But they can move at up to 30km/hour for short bursts.

A small female tries to eat eggs from this nest

The visit is curated by cheerful rangers who offer a choice of treks, either short, medium, or long…but none of the walks are particularly strenuous.  Entry to both islands cost about USD$35/person.  You can save money by using the combo park entry and visiting both Komodo and Rinca on the same day, but this comes at an expense:  the afternoon trek is rarely good for seeing lizards, as it’s too hot and they’re asleep or hiding.

We did the medium trek and saw a female on a nest (searching for other lizards to eat! They are cannibalistic!) and a number of large ones around the ranger camp.  Be aware that while one expects a Jurassic Park-style experience with dragons chasing you like the T-Rex through the jungle, it is much more sedate experience.  The only time we saw them moving at all was when the ranger tossed a stone near them and they checked to see if it was meat.

Still, you get to see these animals in the wild doing what they do best…wait for wild boar, buffalo, or the hapless tourist to get too close.

The fetid saliva of the dragons poisons prey, who die of infection a week or so after being bitten.

It is worth mentioning that from time to time people have tried to skirt the park entry fee and enter by land via the fishing village. The last time this happened, in 2017, a Singaporean tourist got badly attacked by a dragon who snuck up behind him. These are very dangerous wild animals and you cannot make this trek unguided.